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Tuesday, May 13, 2008
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How to use Rhinestones aka
Techniques for Mounting Rhinestones


> Swarovski 2012 Flatbacks
> Our Full line of Swarovski Crystal Products

To Glue or Mount that is the question

Mounts
There are essentially two types of mounts:

  • Tiffany: prongs come from back of material, and wrap over stone edges, like a jewel mounting in rings.
  • Rim Sets: consist of a ring of metal which covers edge of stone, pressed through cloth, over the stone and prongs that fold back over back of edge of stone. Each style has its advantages and disadvantages:

Tiffany sets show the whole stone and are relatively unobtrusive to the stone design. However, these will snag the closest fabric, particularly knits. When they do, not only can they damage whatever they have snagged, but also usually the prong is loosened or opened up and the stone is lost forever. NEVER use Tiffany mounts on under the sleeve or body area under sleeves the fabric will be ruined within the hour. However, Tiffany mounts are great for mounting large jewels on the front of your outfit, particularly at the neckline.

Rim Sets do not snag on anything, offer a very nice finished look, and protect the edges of rhinestones. Rim Sets completely cover the edge of whatever they are mounting. Here is the major disadvantage, when using small rhinestones, such as the 20SS, a major part of the stone is covered. I do not recommend mounting anything smaller than a 20SS with rims. When using Rim Sets, the pattern must be planned to include the rim, it will be an important part of the pattern. Rim Sets are used a lot in Country Western outfits and Tack for Horses. If you use rim sets, plan to line the back the prongs. The prongs will ruin hosiery. When Rim Setting on Leotards, care must be taken when putting on Leotards on to avoid this.

Use of Tiffany or Rim Sets involves a lot of prong bending. If you are planning of doing a lot of this work, I suggest buying a press

No matter which way you mount rhinestones, lightly glue the flat backs in place to create the pattern, then go back and apply the settings. The patterns are more precise, and the setting process is much faster.


Glue
I strongly suggest a good fabric glue. Never use Super Glue or Hot Glue to set Rhinestones, it will change the color of the foil backing.

Practice on scrap fabric until you can consistently judge the size of glue spots required.

Place glue spots onto fabric in whatever patterns you want. The glue spots must be smaller than the rhinestone you are using, the glue should just come around the rhinestone edge. You want to glue the rhinestone glass edge to the fabric, not just the back of the rhinestone. The bond of the foil backing to the glass of the rhinestone is not enough to hold the stone to the fabric. Ultimately, if abused, you will have nice, bright shiny metallic spot of foil with no glass.

  • You will use smaller spots of glue with smaller stones, larger with larger. Practice with each size stone you use.
  • Do not apply any more spots of glue than you can set stones into within 60 seconds. If it is a dry day, do fewer at one time you do not want the glue to skim dry on the surface BEFORE the stone is set.
  • Most Glue is white when it comes out of the tube, and is water-soluble. It becomes clear when it dries, and is no longer water-soluble.
  • Use an Applicator Stick to make your life much easier. Apply the glue spots to the fabric, lightly touch the top side of the stone with the waxy end of the applicator stick the stone will stick to the applicator stick, but you do not want it 'glued' to the stone. Push the stone into the glue with the applicator stick; lightly twirl the stick as you pull back. The rhinestone will stay in the glue and you can move on to the next stone very quickly. Do not even think about tweezers. Glue gets on the tips and the stones stick to the tweezers.
  • Allow rhinestone glue to begin to clear before moving to another part of the fabric and handle lightly, being careful not to undo stones that are drying.
  • Usually, 24 hours is a good drying time before wearing your garment. Wait one week to hand wash. Wash in cold to warm water.
  • Do Not Dry Clean Clothes With Glued Stones. The glue will discolor (yellow) and eventually become brittle.
  • If you loose a stone, reapply glue to same spot and replace stone as above.
  • IF you drip glue on fabric, use damp, clean cloth to remove. Wipe and repeat a few times.
  • Do Not Remove Glue From Satin With A Damp Cloth. You Will Water Spot The Satin.
  • The best way to avoid spots, etc., when gluing is to be careful.

SS (stone size) Size Actual Size in Millimeters
5SS1.8 mm
6SS2 mm
7SS2.2 mm
8SS2.3 mm
9SS2.6 mm
10SS 2.8mm
12SS3 mm
16SS4 mm
20SS4.7 mm
30SS6.4 mm
34SS7.1 mm
40SS8.6 mm
42SS9.1 mm
48SS11 mm

Swarovski is recognized as the world's best rhinestones, and the most expensive. Swarovski uses a 12 cut stone (2012 Style) whereas other brands still have the eight cut style. Swarovski rhinestones have a higher lead content in the crystal glass, giving it a slight edge on clarity, but the high lead in the glass makes it a tad softer than other brands. If you are considering mounting these stones with a press, you may want to reconsider, as you may crush a few stones when mounting.
See our full line of Swarovski Products
See our line of Swarovski 2012 Flatbacks

Rhinestones and Flatbacks
I get so many emails from people about Flatbacks and Rhinestones that I've decided to add as much information as I can to my website. I will be updating this page As Often As Possible. In the mean time please check out the links, articles and resources that I have dug up.
Rhinestone Inspirations
Unless your are just asking for a whole bunch of headaches I would get a third party company to do any sort of volume rhinestone work. You know like you wanted to do 25 or more shirts. Just make up a design and have them duplicate it

Jerry Smith, Beads
Gemstone Beads -- Serving the Beading Community..Since 1999

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